The Moth Radio Hour: Delicious! Stories of Food & Feelings

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Speaker 3 This is the Moth Radio Hour and I'm your host, Suzanne Rust.

Speaker 3 I live in a household with an Italian husband where while we're eating breakfast we're thinking about lunch and at lunch we're planning dinner.

Speaker 3 It's a family trait that we've passed down to our son and daughter. We definitely live to eat because a good meal brings such joy.

Speaker 3 But beyond sustenance food is a magical vessel. It transports us back to our childhoods, back to memories of meals shared with friends and family, back to road trips and vacations.

Speaker 3 And through it, so many stories are born, nurtured, and remembered over the years.

Speaker 3 Sometimes food is what you do for a living. Our first story comes from chef Arlene Stewart, who told it at a show in East Hampton, New York, where Guild Hall was our venue and partner.

Speaker 3 Here's Arlene, the live with them off.

Speaker 4 It's late spring, early summer, 1997, New York City, Hudson River.

Speaker 4 It's the reopening reopening and rebranding of an acclaimed New York City chef's restaurant.

Speaker 4 We have to learn his style, his techniques. We have to take his ideas, his palette, and put it on a plate.

Speaker 4 But for some reason, when the chef met me, he decided to make me his personal punching bag. No matter what I did, I could not please him.

Speaker 4 Day after day after day, he would relentlessly abuse me. He would say things like, would you eat that? Would that be something you'd serve your mother? There would be plates pelled.

Speaker 4 You know when you throw a stone and it ripples on the water? He would throw the plate across the path and it would literally ripple across to me.

Speaker 4 Day after day, we're getting ready for opening night in the restaurant and he is riding me and riding me.

Speaker 4 It's opening night and the runners are running in and out of the kitchen, the wait staff, the kitchen staff is getting their stations ready, and my dish is the first dish on the station to go out.

Speaker 4 Now, the who's who of New York is coming to this event, so there is like an added excitement in this. It's not friends and family night, it is the night.

Speaker 4 One of the things that's coming off my station is his tuna gravlux. Now, I know how to make gravlux because my previous restaurant was a Scandinavian restaurant.
Now, Gravlux is a beautiful fish

Speaker 4 usually with salmon and you take the perfect amount of salt and sugar and it has to be balanced because if you put too much salt it will take away the fat which is so important to give it that smooth silky buttery sexy taste in your mouth.

Speaker 4 You put a little bit of dill and it just opens up in your palate. But this chef wants to speed up the process.
He's using tuna and vodka to make this grab blocks. He's not happy with my grab locks.

Speaker 4 He's on me, on me.

Speaker 4 So it's about 5:30,

Speaker 4 5, 5:30 in the evening, and guests are about to arrive. And he is still riding me, riding me.
And I decided, you know what? Fuck this. I'm out.

Speaker 5 And I walk off the line.

Speaker 5 Now,

Speaker 4 I'm walking down the West Side Highway on the river and I am sobbing. I am crying and I have no rights to be walking off a job.

Speaker 4 You see, I've been couch surfing and my visa is about to run out, so I really need this job.

Speaker 4 But I am walking and I'm crying and I'm sobbing as I said, and he is right behind me, and he is yelling and screaming at me. You don't have it.

Speaker 4 You don't have what it takes to make it in this business. You'll never make it in this business.

Speaker 4 And it's one of those beautiful evenings in New York City when you know the sky gets that purple orange color and I'm just sobbing.

Speaker 4 And in my vision to my right is the Statue of Liberty and to my left it's the Empire State Building. And I am walking and crying and sobbing.
And I remember, This is my love.

Speaker 4 You see, when I was eight years old, my grandmother's friend came back from a missionary in Africa and she asked me if I knew how to cook.

Speaker 5 And I'm like, I'm eight years old.

Speaker 4 And she says to me,

Speaker 4 she's going to set up the coal pot. We're cooking in the backyard.
She's going to set up the coal pot and that I need to go to the kitchen coop, get a chicken,

Speaker 4 clean it, kill it, clean it, season it, and bring it back to her. Now I knew how to do that.

Speaker 5 Really?

Speaker 6 So

Speaker 4 in cleaning the chicken, it's a principle of you have to wash the chicken with lemon or vinegar. Otherwise, in a Caribbean house, they don't consider it clean.
And I have to make this green seasoning.

Speaker 4 Now, green seasoning is in every Trinidad household. It is a combination of shadow benny, thyme, onions, garlic, and you either blend it or you mortar it.

Speaker 4 So I do all those things and I bring it back to her. She said, we're going to make stewed chicken, lentils, and rice.
Another staple.

Speaker 4 Now the beautiful thing, if you've ever been to the Caribbean and you get a stewed chicken, it's this beautiful caramel. You put the oil in the pot and you add the sugar.

Speaker 4 Now if you let the sugar go too far it will burn and gives you this bitter taste in your mouth. So we make the stewed chicken, the lentils and the rice.
I'm so excited.

Speaker 4 I go back to my home and I tell my grandmother, I'm like, you wouldn't believe what I did. And she sees my excitement and she decides that she's going to take me on in the kitchen.

Speaker 4 Now, I am excited to be in the kitchen with my grandmother because it's just her and I.

Speaker 4 This is our time together. Every time we're cooking together, it's just she and I.
My grandmother was an excellent cook.

Speaker 4 She had sweet hands. That's what we call it, sweet hand, when everything you cook just tastes good.

Speaker 4 And she taught me how to make kalalu and macaroni pie and bakes and cakes and sweet breads. And I just enjoy the opportunity to just spend time with her and learn how to cook.

Speaker 5 So

Speaker 4 my future. I'm here in New York and I'm working through my field and I'm looking for work now since I walked off the job and I'm going door to door.

Speaker 4 I'm looking through the village voice and I'm looking for work and I'm looking for work and I'm being told things like we don't hire women.

Speaker 4 Now you have to remember this is before becoming a chef was glamorous. This is when someone told me when I said I was going to be a chef that oh I'll pray for you.

Speaker 4 This is before the beer.

Speaker 4 You know, so I'm looking at chefs and saying, we don't hire women you don't have what it takes to work here and on and on so I'm on the M10 bus going up Central Park West if any of you knew New York going up Central Park West and I look and I said to a friend I said you know what

Speaker 4 if I tell God I want to work there he'll let me work there there was John George just opened up This actually was open thing. So I called up and I asked if they were hiring and they said yes.

Speaker 4 Bring your resume and come. So I put my resume and I came.

Speaker 5 I am nervous.

Speaker 4 I remember standing there in the kitchen, and my heart is beating, and I just can't believe that I'm actually here.

Speaker 4 I'm looking around, and I'm like, I didn't go to the Culinary Institute of America. I didn't go to Johnson and Wales.
I don't really have what it takes to be here. But guess what?

Speaker 4 He looks at my resume, he thought it was great enough, and he hires me.

Speaker 4 I'm excited to be here it is an amazing place to work there is camaraderie there is love there's exchange of ideas you're I'm learning so much I'm learning the importance of salt and pepper and just what acid does to a dish and how it

Speaker 4 brings like depth of flavor and just what fat does to a dish And

Speaker 4 it's just like a love fest. It just takes me back to my beginnings when I learned how to cook with my grandmother.

Speaker 4 And I can't believe this, that I am now here in this three-star Michelin restaurant working.

Speaker 4 One day we're having an event and I'm getting my station ready. It's one of the dishes I have to make on my station is the garlic soup and frog legs, if any of you have ever been to John George.

Speaker 4 that's one of our staples. And I'm making my dish, and I'm getting it ready, and I'm putting it up on the pass.
And I look up,

Speaker 4 and who do I see?

Speaker 4 My old chef.

Speaker 4 And our eyes connect, and

Speaker 4 you know, he turns to his sous chef when he's talking to his sous chef, and you know when someone's talking about you.

Speaker 4 So I can tell that he's talking about me, and I'm probably sure he's wondering, is that her?

Speaker 4 Is she here? And I remember just standing up and just looking at him like, yeah,

Speaker 4 I'm here.

Speaker 4 I have since gone on to cook for presidents and kings, and I can stand and say I do have what it takes.

Speaker 3 That was Chef Arlene Stewart.

Speaker 3 Arlene is the founder and owner of Cocosine Wellness Retreats and and the personal chef to Kelly Rippa and Mark Consuelos.

Speaker 3 She has worked in the kitchens of notable chefs like Marcus Samuelson and the late Patrick Clark of Tavern on the Green.

Speaker 3 But the vibrant flavors that often inspire her come from her Trinidadian roots and her childhood memories.

Speaker 3 Full disclosure, Arlene and I have been friends for over 20 years and I have been lucky enough to have been fed by her many times.

Speaker 3 I knew that she had lots of stories in her, so I was thrilled when she finally agreed to share one at the moth.

Speaker 5 Here's a little more from Arlene.

Speaker 1 You talk about

Speaker 3 this term which I love called sweet hands.

Speaker 8 And I wonder, are sweet hands something you're born with?

Speaker 5 Are sweet hands something you can grow into?

Speaker 8 No, you have to be born with it.

Speaker 8 Every culture actually has a terminology in which they use and they it's from the hands because you can go to the best culinary school and still not become a good cook.

Speaker 8 you know that's why some people can watch a recipe or what come up and make something that tastes better than you may have in a restaurant or you just make better than someone who spent their life dedicated to cooking because they just didn't have that thing yeah you know what i mean that thing in the hand that you can just you know how much salt to put you know how much of everything that would make it a perfect balance it's a hard hand connection soul thing

Speaker 5 beautiful i wonder what keeps you in this business.

Speaker 8 I know it's been rough in so many ways being a woman, a woman of color,

Speaker 8 but you persevered. And I wonder what drives you? What's your driving force in staying?

Speaker 5 I love it.

Speaker 8 You know, the truth is, it's satisfying.

Speaker 8 It fills me. It fills all of me.

Speaker 8 You know what I mean? Like, I feel like I get to use... all of my senses.

Speaker 8 I get to use my brain besides, you know, because your mind and your and your eyes and your palate actually creates the dish before it goes on the plate or before you even start to cook it.

Speaker 8 Your mind starts working. Hmm, I wonder if I take this and that and that and that and how would that, and it starts there.

Speaker 8 And then when you see the final product, which is, you know, when you present it on the plate and you're like, wow, that actually tasted how it tasted in my mind's eye.

Speaker 8 That's what keeps me is that I'm still learning and growing and it still brings me lots of joy and satisfaction.

Speaker 3 That was Chef Arlene Stewart. To see a photo of her lovely face, go to themoth.org.

Speaker 3 In a moment, hot pot techniques and crimes of passion when the moth radio hour continues.

Speaker 10 Moth Radio Hour is produced by Atlantic Public Media in Woods Hole, Massachusetts.

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Speaker 3 This is the Moth Radio Hour and I'm your host, Suzanne Rust.

Speaker 3 Being the only child at a dinner table full of adults gives you a unique point of view. Dee Jao shared this next story at a New York City slam where WNYC is a media partner of the moth.
Here's Dee.

Speaker 5 When I was six, my parents took me to a restaurant. Now, I had been to restaurants before but this night was special for a few reasons.
Firstly, I was going to be the only kid amongst a sea of adults.

Speaker 5 This meant that obviously they're recognizing me as a peer in all of my maturity.

Speaker 5 And also my mom wouldn't be gatekeeping my table manners because she would be too distracted talking with the grown-ups around her.

Speaker 5 Furthermore, this was a hot pot restaurant.

Speaker 5 Now, if you have never had hot pot, you need to know that it's basically a build-your-own dinner adventure.

Speaker 5 You start with a savory soup base in the middle of a lazy Susan that's simmering away, and you order these plates of raw things like sliced lamb, beef, fish cakes.

Speaker 4 cabbage.

Speaker 5 By the way, I've never seen anyone eat cabbage at the hot pot, so you you don't have to order it.

Speaker 5 Now we go into this restaurant and we sit down. Everything is moving according to plan.
My little head is bobbing at a lower angle than all of the rest of the adults. I'm feeling in my element.

Speaker 5 The pot starts simmering and I hiss at my mom to order me my quail eggs.

Speaker 5 If you've never had quail eggs, You need to know. They are hands down the best thing to order at a hot pot.

Speaker 5 There's just something that comes together with the yolk and the soup base when it hits your tongue. The creamy factor.

Speaker 5 Also, they're the size and shape of a large marble. So they're nearly impossible to pick up with chopsticks, especially in teeny six-year-old hands.

Speaker 5 So when the eggs come by in front of me, I do give it the good college try for a whole minute and I try to pick it up with both chopsticks. Doesn't work.

Speaker 5 So I decide to spear through one instead with a single stick.

Speaker 1 And that does work.

Speaker 5 And as I'm watching it fall into the pot, this primal joy takes over me and I start stabbing holes into every single piece of potato in front of me.

Speaker 5 I get really methodical about this.

Speaker 5 None of the other adults have holes in their food. This has become my brand, my legacy.
This is the sign that I own these contents of the pot.

Speaker 5 I dump all of my holy stuff in, and as I'm waiting for it to cook, I envision in a few minutes my mom

Speaker 5 turning towards me in slow motion and seeing a bowl of steaming whole-filled vegetables in front of me and her eyes welling up as she realizes that I'm now capable of serving myself food and I'm probably going to leave her soon.

Speaker 5 And I like this fantasy so much that I play it a couple of times in my head until I snap back to reality and decide it is time for the harvest.

Speaker 5 So I take the communal idle and I start rooting around in the pot and

Speaker 5 there's nothing.

Speaker 2 There's

Speaker 5 worse than nothing. There's just cabbage.
There's no quail egg. There's no potato.

Speaker 5 And I sink back down into my seat and I realize with horror that I had violated the cardinal sin of hot pot. I had let the food melt before getting it out of the pot.

Speaker 5 And I'm staring into the bubbles from the pot, which seemed to be made of shame.

Speaker 11 And

Speaker 5 none of the other adults notice my sadness. In fact, the man sitting across from me is laughing uproariously about something with the lady next to him.

Speaker 5 And he picks up his bowl and deftly lifts Aqualek up with his chopsticks. And right before it disappears into his mouth, I notice a small hole in the egg.

Speaker 5 Time slows down as he chews, He swallows. He picks up more potato slices out of his bowl.
Potato slices also with holes in them.

Speaker 5 I suddenly feel my smallness. I thought I was an adult.
I thought I was sitting amongst my peers.

Speaker 5 But this

Speaker 5 man

Speaker 5 took my quail egg. He took my potato slices.
He saw the holes and he ignored the holes.

Speaker 5 Well, I am not an adult. I'm a child.
And this cold, harsh desire for vengeance and this clear child logic overtakes me.

Speaker 5 I am not going to let this grown man, this family friend, this university professor get away with this.

Speaker 5 If I don't eat, he doesn't eat.

Speaker 5 So, I start watching very closely whenever he puts anything into the pot. And it turns out he really likes quail eggs and potato slices too.

Speaker 5 In goes some eggs. I wait for him to look away and I ladle it out immediately.
In goes some veggies. I'm eating the egg while I wait for him to look away and I ladle it out immediately.

Speaker 5 He drops in another egg. I wait.
And then he looks down and the egg is on my plate. In, out, in, out.
I am taking him to the cleaners.

Speaker 5 After a free round of hide and eat,

Speaker 5 he is becoming visibly agitated as he roots around and he is getting nothing but cabbage.

Speaker 4 Finally,

Speaker 5 he dumps all of the remaining quail eggs in all at once and I immediately reach over to take them out, noticing too late that this time he has not looked away.

Speaker 5 And his eyes move from the pot up to my arm, down to my plate that's brimming with uneaten eggs.

Speaker 5 And for the first time that night, our eyes meet.

Speaker 5 And I slowly eat the eggs as he drinks his 120-proof baitio while we're staring at each other all the while.

Speaker 5 I'd like to think that his silence for the the rest of the evening was caused by extreme self-reflection and deep regret over what he's done.

Speaker 5 While I, on the other hand, have a wonderful night and I managed to harvest more vegetables and eggs from my hot pot.

Speaker 5 So,

Speaker 5 I did not become an adult that night, but I did get to relish being a kid.

Speaker 5 As it turns out, a dash of pettiness adds a ton of flavor to a hot pie.

Speaker 3 That was Dee Jiao. Dee spends her weekdays talking to companies about sustainability and her weekends being enthusiastic about food.

Speaker 3 After her daughter recovered successfully from recent surgery, Dee and her husband celebrated by ordering pizza, Indian takeout, and McDonald's all in the same evening.

Speaker 3 I asked Dee if her favorite hot pot ingredients had changed, but she let me know that she was still team quail eggs all the way.

Speaker 3 To see a photo of Dee and her fabulous hot pot spread, go to themoth.org.

Speaker 3 When I was a little girl growing up on the upper west side of Manhattan, there was an Italian restaurant called Tony's Kitchen where I used to go with my parents.

Speaker 3 I loved their desserts, specifically these ice cream wonders that were exotic to me with fun names like Tortoni and Spumoni.

Speaker 3 All this to say, our next story, told by Josephine Ferraro, took me back to those happy days. She shared it at a slant in New York City.
Here's Josephine.

Speaker 7 So when I was seven years old, my best friend Rosalyn and I used to

Speaker 7 love love to go to Ferrara's bakery on Myrtle Avenue in Brooklyn, and

Speaker 7 we would wait all day

Speaker 7 and crave their spomoni.

Speaker 7 And if you've never had spomoni before, it's like Italian gelato, but with mixed with different flavors and it, you know, it's scooped up and molded into these little white cups.

Speaker 7 And we just, we loved it. It was the best part of our day.
And every morning my mother would give us money so we could get the spumoni.

Speaker 7 But one day she forgot to give us the money.

Speaker 7 And

Speaker 7 we were standing there in front of Ferrara's bakery and we were just staring into the window. We could see Frankie scooping up the spumoni and putting it into little white cups.

Speaker 7 And I knew that I could wait until my mother came to pick us up. and she would buy us the spumoni, but I didn't want to wait.
I wanted it now.

Speaker 7 So I said to Rosalind, I have an idea. I know how we can get money for the spumone.

Speaker 7 And I said, we will just wait for people to pass by and we'll tell them we're collecting for charity

Speaker 7 and we'll buy our spumoni

Speaker 7 and then what's ever left over we'll put in the poor box at St. Lucie's Church.
And she thought it was a great idea. So we got our spumoni and it never tasted as good as it did that day.

Speaker 7 And when my mother came, I couldn't wait to tell her my great idea.

Speaker 7 So I told her and she just said, oh no,

Speaker 7 you have to go to church on Saturday and confess what you did.

Speaker 7 And I just cried all the way home because I didn't know I had done anything wrong. And I was also annoyed with Rosalind because she wasn't Catholic.
And so she didn't have to go to confession.

Speaker 7 So for the next three days until Saturday I prayed every night, dear God,

Speaker 7 please don't let it be Monsignor Genoa.

Speaker 7 Let it be any other priest that I confess to, and I will never do a bad thing again.

Speaker 7 So that Saturday,

Speaker 7 the reason why was because he gave out the worst penances. He was very strict and all the kids dreaded going to confession with him.
So that Saturday, I went to St. Lucie's Church with my mother.

Speaker 7 And when we got in, I put the money in the poor box, what was left over, you know, after the spumone.

Speaker 2 And

Speaker 7 I waited my turn to go to confession. I was really scared.

Speaker 7 And my mother went into the confessional box first. And when she she came out, she just looked at me and she said, mm-hmm.

Speaker 7 And I knew that that meant it was Monsignor Genoa and that I was going to get it.

Speaker 7 So I was very nervous and I was tempted to run away. But, you know,

Speaker 7 I had been raised to believe that if I had died with a mortal sin on my soul, that I was going to be going straight to hell.

Speaker 7 And I was more afraid of that than I was of Monsignor Genua. So I waited my turn.
I went into the confessional box.

Speaker 7 And

Speaker 7 the confessional box is very small, right? There's only like a little door between you and the priest.

Speaker 7 And my heart was pounding, and finally he opened the little door, and I said very fast, bless me, Father, for I have sinned. It's been one week since my last confession.

Speaker 7 And I was trying to think of other sins that I may have committed that week, but I couldn't think of any.

Speaker 7 So I had to tell him right away about the Spamoni incident. And I told him, and you know, usually they're like kind of like profile, you're looking at them and profile.

Speaker 2 And he just turned around and he looked at me.

Speaker 7 And he just, in a booming voice, he said, you lied, you cheated, and you stole.

Speaker 7 And my heart was pounding. And he said, you will put the remaining money in the poor box and you will say 20 our fathers and 20 hail marys as your penance

Speaker 7 I walked out and I didn't look at anybody because I knew that they had heard you know the Monsignor yelling at me and I walked to the altar and kneeled down on the marble step and I said my confession.

Speaker 7 I said my penance and it took me a long time,

Speaker 7 but after that, I never begged for spumoni money again.

Speaker 3 That was Josephine Ferraro. Josephine is a psychotherapist in private practice in New York City.

Speaker 3 In her spare time, she loves writing for her psychotherapy blog, telling stories, and doing improv with her team Sunday Best. Sadly, she hasn't had a good Spumoni in a long, long time.

Speaker 3 To see a photo of Josephine and her mother taken around the time of the Spumoni Caper, go to themoth.org.

Speaker 3 In a moment, two men remember their grandmothers through recipes when the moth radio hour continues.

Speaker 10 The Moth Radio Hour is produced by Atlantic Public Media in Woods Hole, Massachusetts.

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Speaker 13 What's up, world? It's Von Miller, Super Bowl MVP, chicken farmer, and now host of Free Range. This is a show where I go off the field and off the script.

Speaker 13 We're talking what's hot in music, film, trending news, and everything blowing up your feed. If you love football, you'll feel at home.

Speaker 13 But if you're here for the vibes, the internet deep dives, the conversation, this is your podcast. Join me every Wednesday.

Speaker 13 Follow and listen to Free Range with me, Von Miller, everywhere you get your podcast.

Speaker 3 You're listening to the Moth Radio Hour. I'm Suzanne Rust.
And in this episode, we are sharing stories about food and the memories it can evoke.

Speaker 3 Our last two stories pay tribute to grandmothers and their loving recipes, which live on even after they have left us.

Speaker 3 Michael Imber told this story at a grand slam in New York City where WNYC is a media partner of the Moth. Here's Michael.

Speaker 14 A simple recipe.

Speaker 14 Hershey's cocoa, sugar, vanilla extract, k-roast syrup, a pinch of salt, heated to perfection, poured into a pan, and then cooled in an ice water bath.

Speaker 14 This was my Grandmother Millie's recipe for fudge.

Speaker 14 Fights would break out at family gatherings in St. Louis if anybody dared to take more than their fair share.

Speaker 14 This was no ordinary recipe.

Speaker 14 When the grandchildren all left for college, Nana would make batches of fudge and package them up in old Russell Stover candy boxes and mail them to us.

Speaker 14 And the recipient of the latest batch of fudge would lay claim to the title the Real Angel Boy or the Real Angel Girl, which was her nickname for all of us.

Speaker 14 But we held it as the moniker for the most favored grandchild.

Speaker 14 I was always close to my grandmother, but all the more so after my father passed when I was 10 years old. And she was just a rock for my mother and for my siblings and me.

Speaker 14 When I left for college, I made a point of calling her every Sunday night.

Speaker 14 When I moved to New York, I continued that tradition and I was so happy that she was able to walk down the aisle at my wedding.

Speaker 14 In the winter before Nana's 79th birthday,

Speaker 14 she suffered a transient ischemic attack. a mini-stroke.

Speaker 14 And the emergency room doctors said it was so mild, there was nothing they could do. They just told her, go home and rest.

Speaker 14 And my brother Doug and my cousin Teddy were with her at the time, and they drove her back to her apartment. They arrived about midnight.
And Nana said, I'm wide awake. What do we do now?

Speaker 14 And the boys looked at each other and they said, Nana, make fudge.

Speaker 14 And so she did.

Speaker 14 The next day, my brother calls me and he tells me about Nana's health scare and the story of the fudge.

Speaker 14 And while he wished Nana many more years of life,

Speaker 14 he did remark that he and Teddy easily could have had the last batch of fudge

Speaker 14 and lay claim to the title Angel Boy

Speaker 14 forever.

Speaker 14 About a month later, I get in the mail a package in the size and shape of that familiar Russell Stover candy box.

Speaker 14 Postmarked from St. Louis, but no return address.
When I opened it up, of course, there is my grandmother's celebrated fudge.

Speaker 14 And I called her to thank her, and she said, what fudge?

Speaker 14 That was an odd response.

Speaker 14 But it gave me an idea.

Speaker 14 Rather than eat the fudge, I wrapped the box in a plastic garbage bag, sealed it tight, and I stuck it in the back of my freezer with the prayer that it would be many years before I would defrost it to realize my visionary plan.

Speaker 14 What nobody realized is that Nana was suffering a series of mini strokes that spring. And that explained why she couldn't remember that she had sent me the fudge.

Speaker 14 That August,

Speaker 14 my grandmother suffered a massive stroke, and it sent her to the hospital just as my wife and I were getting ready to leave on a California vacation.

Speaker 14 My mother said, take the trip. And I was warned, do not show up in St.
Louis for fear that it would frighten Nana that her condition was serious.

Speaker 14 The day after we arrived in San Francisco, we got word that my grandmother had passed.

Speaker 14 And I was devastated.

Speaker 14 And as if that were not enough,

Speaker 14 I had another problem.

Speaker 14 The last batch of fudge

Speaker 14 was in Brooklyn. And we had to fly from San Francisco straight to St.
Louis for the funeral.

Speaker 14 Undaunted, I took my key and I FedExed it to a friend in New York who went to our apartment, got the fudge, and FedExed it to me in St. Louis.

Speaker 14 On the second day of Shiva, my package arrived.

Speaker 14 As I walked into the living room where the family had gathered, and everybody saw I had the Russell Stover candy box, you could hear a pin drop.

Speaker 14 This was much more than a recipe.

Speaker 14 And as I shared the last batch of fudge,

Speaker 14 the tears turned to smiles and everybody began to tell their fudge stories. Someone remarked, Nana's catering her own Shiva.

Speaker 14 Nothing could have been sweeter.

Speaker 5 And as for the title, Angel Boy,

Speaker 14 Immortality.

Speaker 14 I love you, Nana. I miss you.
Thank you.

Speaker 3 That was Michael Imber. He lives in Connecticut with Nancy, his bride of 35 years.

Speaker 3 This father of two sons loves to cook for his family and celebrate the stories they share over meals.

Speaker 3 I asked Michael how strong his fudge game was, and he said that while he's made the recipe many times over the years, it's never as good as Nana's.

Speaker 3 He suspects that being a grandmother is actually the secret ingredient to a great batch of fudge.

Speaker 3 To see a photo of Michael and his grandmother, Ms. Millie Shakowitz, and her legendary recipe, head to themoth.org.

Speaker 3 These stories remind us how food and memory are intertwined. So I asked a few people in my life about the meals they remember most and why.

Speaker 3 Here's my friend Kim Van Dorn talking about summers spent in Shreveport, Louisiana.

Speaker 15 My grandfather was a chef, and when I would stay with my grandparents for the summer, he would make breakfast for me before he left for work. bacon, eggs, toast.

Speaker 15 I'd wake up to the smell of bacon, right? What's better than that?

Speaker 15 And while the food was basic, it was well seasoned, it was made with love, and it just taught me that cooking for someone is a gesture of love.

Speaker 15 And to this day, when I go to a restaurant or I smell bacon, I think of him.

Speaker 3 Here's another food memory from another dear friend, Meryl Salzinger.

Speaker 11 One of my most memorable meals was my godmother's fried chicken. We used to call it Betty's Southern Fried Chicken.
And when I was little, I think I thought she had some kind of of patent on it.

Speaker 11 Anyways she used to take the chicken and shake it in a paper bag with flour and salt and pepper and she had this amazing old high-ceiling apartment in Harlem and sometimes me and my sisters were lucky enough to go up there and have it there and then we would have Malamars for dessert.

Speaker 11 I have unbelievably fond memories of that and while she gave my mom the recipe and my mom made it at our house, it was never as good And we told my mother so.

Speaker 3 My friend Venkatesh Tadmiri is a wonderful chef. And I love hearing any stories he has related to food while he was growing up in India.

Speaker 3 He shared this one with me and now I know, finally, the origins of one of his famous sauces.

Speaker 5 When I was six,

Speaker 12 I took a trip with my dad to a small village to see my grandaunt where he cooked a meal of hot rice and fresh coconut chutney with cilantro and green chilies.

Speaker 12 I ate this with fresh yogurt from my grandaunt. This in memory is the most delicious meal ever because of the special time with my dad.

Speaker 3 A favorite memory of mine involves fruitcake.

Speaker 3 Okay, not the dry, tasteless bricks that so many people joke about. I'm talking about a rich, moist, rum-infused treat.

Speaker 3 Around the holidays, I have vivid memories of my grandmother Yuna and her sisters Doris and Petrona, women with Jamaican and Panamanian roots, in the kitchen for hours, churning the large amounts of dried fruit-studded dough by hand in these giant repurposed metal potato chip tins.

Speaker 3 The scent was intoxicating and the cake even more so.

Speaker 3 I finally learned to make the cake about 15 years ago and that first bite always reminds me of them and their warm, inviting kitchen.

Speaker 3 Our final story comes from James Galicchio, who learns firsthand about the unifying powers of a great recipe.

Speaker 3 James told this story at an Open Mic Story Slam competition in Melbourne, Australia, where we partnered with the Australian Broadcasting Corporation ABCRN. Here's James, live with them all.

Speaker 16 So my nonna used to make the best Bologna sauce. And coming from an Italian family, food is the way that you show people that you love them.
We used to have these big family lunches every Sunday.

Speaker 16 Everyone would be there and everyone loved Nona's sauce. We always used to tell Nona, can you show us the recipe for your sauce?

Speaker 16 And I don't know if any of you know any nonnas, but they never tell you their recipes. Because they think that if you can cook their food as good as they can, you'll stop coming to visit them.

Speaker 16 So Nona used to always say to us, I can't tell you the recipe, but you can come over anytime you like, and I'll cook it for you.

Speaker 16 Now, as I got older, my family dynamic changed quite a bit. My parents got divorced, and my mom developed quite a severe mental illness.
And growing up for me was really hard.

Speaker 16 My mum could barely take care of herself, let alone raise me, and I felt like I was taking care of her as well as raising myself. And I started to really resent my family.

Speaker 16 They stopped inviting her to the family lunches because my parents were divorced.

Speaker 16 But I felt like they were abandoning her. And I felt in a way they were abandoning me.
And they didn't know the true extent of what was happening for me at home, but I started to really hate them.

Speaker 16 And I started arguing with them and being angry at them.

Speaker 16 Eventually, the weekly family lunches went to monthly family lunches, went to Easter and Christmas. Eventually, my nonna died, and she took her recipe for bolognese with her.

Speaker 16 As I got older when I was in my 20s, on the rare times that I did see my family,

Speaker 16 it dredged up so many awful memories from my childhood and I started getting such bad anxiety every time I would see them.

Speaker 16 I would spend most of our family lunches in the bathroom trying not to have a panic attack. And I couldn't tell my family that they gave me anxiety.

Speaker 16 I couldn't tell them they were giving me panic attacks so I didn't tell them anything. And they thought I was just an asshole.

Speaker 16 They thought that I hated them. They thought that I was too good for them and that I was stuck up and they thought that I was a bad son, a bad brother, a bad bad nephew, a bad grandson.

Speaker 16 And I just had so much guilt about this and the guilt got so bad that as weird as it sounds, three years ago, almost to the day, I packed a bag and I left.

Speaker 16 I left Melbourne, I left Australia and I just started traveling. I realized that when I was traveling, I could be anybody that I wanted.
I didn't have to carry my family with me.

Speaker 16 I didn't have to have this guilt anymore. And for the first time in years, I felt free.

Speaker 16 After three years of that, I decided I probably wanted to settle down somewhere and I decided I wanted to live in Europe. I was eligible to get my Italian citizenship through my Nona's family.

Speaker 16 And there's two ways you can get citizenship for Italy.

Speaker 16 You can come back to Australia and try to get it for the consulate here, which takes about two years, or you can go to Italy to your ancestral home, live there for about two months, and get it in person.

Speaker 16 So that's how I found myself on a four-hour bus ride up a mountain from Naples, going to the tiny hundred-person town on the top of the mountain where my Nona was born.

Speaker 16 And I had emailed the one family member I knew of in Italy named Vittoria and she was my nona's niece and I'd never met this woman, I'd never seen a photo of this woman but as soon as I got off the bus I knew exactly who she was because she looked exactly like my nona and she came ran she came running up to me and she gave me a big nonna hug and she took me to her house And when I opened the door, there were 20 people waiting inside and she had organized a surprise party for me and everybody in there were my relatives from all over southern Italy and they had come two or three hours each just to come and meet me and they'd never heard of me before but I was family and they wanted to meet me and they bought me presents they had photos of my family to show me they wanted to hear stories from me

Speaker 16 we had this big family lunch and

Speaker 16 I smelt something coming from the kitchen

Speaker 16 And it was this really nostalgic smell and I couldn't quite put my finger on what it was. And Vittoria comes out looking just like my nonna holding this big pot.
And I realized it was Nonna's sauce.

Speaker 16 And I lost it. I started crying.
And everyone else started crying. And I think they thought I was just really emotional about pasta.

Speaker 5 Push it away.

Speaker 16 And so I lived in Grimento Nova for six weeks. And my family did so much for me there.
And these are people who didn't know me at all. They knew nothing about me.
And I didn't know them.

Speaker 16 I just some random Australian who emailed them. And they took me in.
And it was the first time I felt family for decades.

Speaker 16 The day that I got my Italian citizenship, that should have been the beginning. That should have been the beginning of my life in Europe.

Speaker 16 That should have been the beginning of my emancipation. But when I held that passport in my hand, all I could feel was that it was the end.
It was the end of me running from my childhood.

Speaker 16 It was the end of me running from my family. It was the end of me trying to live without people in my life who cared about me.
And that was the day I booked a flight back to Australia.

Speaker 16 I got back to Australia three or or four months ago and when I got back I was really anxious about how I was gonna try to start rekindling my relationship with my family and I sent them a message and I said I just got back from Europe and I spent a few months in Grumento Nova and you won't believe it they taught me how to make non-naz sauce and they responded straight away and they said oh my god you you have to tell us the recipe

Speaker 16 and I said I can't tell you the recipe but you can come over anytime you like, and I'll cook it for you.

Speaker 3 James Galicchio is an app developer from Melbourne, Australia, where he lives with his wife and twin daughters. His story takes place in Grimento Nova, a tiny mountain town in southern Italy.

Speaker 3 James is still in touch with his Italian relatives and has been back to visit them several times, and they stay connected on WhatsApp. I asked James if he ever shares his Nona's recipe.

Speaker 3 He said, nope, I'm stubborn like that. So you won't find it on our website, but you can see a photo of James with his daughters, hopefully future sauce makers, on themoth.org.

Speaker 3 Hearing James's story, I couldn't help but think of Marissa, my wonderful Italian mother-in-law who passed away very recently. Her Sunday lunches were epic.

Speaker 3 Pasta, fricotta, and spinach, followed by a perfect roast and vegetables of some kind, and always a homemade dessert.

Speaker 3 I would always compliment her on the delicious meal and she would humbly say, Ma no neg

Speaker 3 speciale. Oh, it's really nothing special.
But it was.

Speaker 3 And I'm very fortunate that my husband Marco inherited his mother's skills in the kitchen. Dinners at our home are also very special.
So I asked Marco if he had any particular food memory to share.

Speaker 17 well, my mom cooked a lot of delicious foods, you know, pasta with chickpeas, lasagnas, a lot of interesting stuff.

Speaker 17 But one of my fondest memories is when I was a little kid, coming back from school, she would make me

Speaker 17 a rosetta bread with olive oil, salt, and vinegar, and it was delicious.

Speaker 14 It made me feel loved.

Speaker 3 That was my husband, Marco Kalo. To see a photo of Nona and Marco sitting at her dining room table in Rome, head to our extras at themoth.org.

Speaker 3 I'd like to thank all of the tellers for sharing these moments with us. And I'd like to thank the people in our lives who nourish us with love and delicious things to eat.

Speaker 3 That's it for this episode of The Moth Radio Hour. We hope you'll join us next time.
And that's the story from the Moth.

Speaker 10 This episode of The Moth Radio Hour was produced by me, Jay Allison, and Suzanne Rust, who also hosted the show. Co-producer is Vicki Merrick, associate producer Emily Couch.

Speaker 10 The stories were directed by Sarah Austin Janes and Michelle Jolowski, with additional Grand Slam coaching by Chloe Salmon.

Speaker 10 The rest of the Moss leadership team includes Sarah Haberman, Christina Norman, Jennifer Higson, Meg Bowles, Kate Tellers, Marina Cluche, Leanne Gulley, Sarah Jane Johnson, and Aldi Caza.

Speaker 10 Moss' stories are true, as remembered and affirmed by the storytellers. Our theme music is by The Drift.

Speaker 10 Other music in this hour from Bepe Gambeta, Carlo Alonso and David Grisman, Luis Bakalov, Luis Bonfa, Bruno Bertoli, Cora Jazz Trio and Ernest Wanglund.

Speaker 10 We receive funding from the National Endowment for the Arts. The Moth Radio Hour is produced by Atlantic Public Media in Woods Hole, Massachusetts.

Speaker 10 Special thanks to our friends at Odyssey, including executive producer Leah Rhys Dennis.

Speaker 10 For more about our podcast, for information on pitching us your own story, and everything else, go to our website, themoth.org.

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