labubu matcha dubai chocolate

26m
How TikTok reshaped the trend cycle.

This episode was produced by Danielle Hewitt, edited by Amina Al-Sadi, fact-checked by Laura Bullard, engineered by Patrick Boyd, and hosted by Sean Rameswaram.

A young woman holding an iced matcha latte. Photo by Jens Kalaene/picture alliance via Getty Images.

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Transcript

Today explained Sean Ramisfurm.

A thing about me is I don't drink coffee, but I can handle a matcha every now and then.

Recently, I found myself in New York City at a very cute, straight out of Tokyo, tiny little matcha shop in Soho.

And there was a line, of course.

And one by one, I watched as almost every person ahead of me broke out their telephones and filmed like a mini documentary while getting their iced matcha lattes they were getting all the angles selfies regular camera front-facing camera peace signs one with boo one with the squad and i was like what is going on you guys it's a drink and then i read that there was a worldwide matcha shortage and then i was really like what is going on and it turns out laboo boo matcha dubai chocolate was going on and for anyone who missed it we're going to explain on the show today

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We've got a matcha latte up here for to

explore.

All right, so we wanted to find out what's going on with matcha, why it was seemingly everywhere this summer, why people were acting all Ken Burnsey about their beverages, why is there a shortage?

Is there a shortage?

We asked Dr.

Rebecca Corbett from the University of Southern California for the tea.

She specializes in Japanese studies.

Yes, there is a shortage of matcha right now.

Like with any crop, the production cycle, it's cyclical, right?

Like it goes with the seasons.

And so in late October and early November is when last year's crop is starting to run out and the new crop is about to hit the market.

And I remember tea shops in Tokyo where I was based started putting signs up saying, you know, there's a matcha shortage.

Each customer can only buy one can per day and things like that.

And also warning that there would be price increases coming because of the shortage.

Matcha mania is sweeping the world.

Seems like everyone these days wants a cup of matcha and there's so little supply to go around something.

The Japan Ministry of Finance says the U.S.

made up nearly 80% of the country's powdered green tea exports last year.

80%.

Matcha is powdered green tea.

What's important to know is that all tea comes from the same plant.

For green teas like matcha, the leaves are heated to prevent oxidation.

That's what makes it different from black tea that is oxidised.

Another important thing for matcha is that it's the freshest, youngest leaves of the plant that are picked to go into matcha production.

And they're picked by hand every year in spring and then they're steamed and they're crushed and dried.

and those leaves are called tensha and then they're ground to become matcha.

The grinding process is also quite expensive and slow.

So there's these huge stone grinders that are used and they can cost like one piece of that equipment costs like tens of thousands of dollars.

And then we also have to consider that the amount of arable land available in Japan for growing tea is limited as well.

So it's not super easy for producers to just scale up because there's been this unprecedented spike in global demand.

How long have humans been drinking matcha and which humans?

Certainly over a thousand years.

Matcha's the Japanese term, but if we think of powdered tea, it was originally being drunk in China.

It then came to Japan a few hundred years later in the hands of Buddhist monks.

So this was in around 1250.

So mid-13th century, that matcha comes to Japan from China and then matcha drinking or powdered tea drinking really falls out of popularity and use in China about a hundred years later or late 14th century and it's only then for the next you know 700 years or so being produced and drunk in Japan and now we're in this global matcha boom where producers in other countries, including China, are starting to re-enter the market.

When did matcha really arrive in the West?

It doesn't feel like it was actually this summer.

It was earlier than that, wasn't it?

Yeah, it wasn't this summer.

I think it's just like exploded this summer.

And

I would say as a rough date, the matcha boom started around 2021, but we can actually look back earlier than that.

I have seen clips from the Today Show.

In 2015.

So, are you ready to give it a try?

How much do you have to consume?

They did a a little story on like matcha as the newest superfood trend, and they made some for the hosts

to drink.

And Al Roka's face

when he drank the matcha was like,

Yeah,

he was not a fan.

You guys all think it's bitter.

It's like, why don't you hand me a handful of grass to eat?

It's healthy.

So, here's the thing.

Well, maybe yours is.

It starts bad and it gets worse.

So, then you're rude, Al.

Yeah.

What took the West so long to catch up on matcha?

It has taken a while for Westerners to decide that they actually really like matcha, probably because these days people are mixing it a lot with sugar and milk and other flavorings.

I used to hate matcha until I figured out how to make it taste good.

This easy five-minute strawberry matcha latte is my favorite drink of the summer.

Salted honey cold foam iced matcha latte.

Pumpkin spice iced matcha latte, mango and lilacoi syrup, almond milk matcha latte with a macadamia nut pineapple cold foam.

I would say though that in Chanoyua Japanese tea ceremony, which is an entire cultural practice and aesthetic practice based around preparing and drinking matcha,

and we don't add anything to it, that has been very popular globally since the post-World War II period.

So since the 1950s.

But that's a very like niche specific practice.

You know, there's some thousands of non-Japanese and Japanese Japanese people around the world who practice that, but it's completely separate to the global matcha boom and this

huge rise in demand

that we've seen since about 2021.

Surely it can't just be the fact that people discovered that you can sweeten matcha with sugar or honey that's led to the matcha craze of our particular moment.

Was there something else going on?

It's kind of caught those of us who worked in the field a little bit by surprise as well.

So I can't give you one clear answer.

I think there's a confluence of reasons.

I think it is the kind of cool Japan image.

The post-pandemic period, we've seen a huge tourism boom to Japan that's been fueled by the week yen.

So

that may be related as well.

And then I think it's definitely clear that social media, especially Instagram and TikTok that are very visual, have played a significant role.

I mean, tell me where you can get a strawberry matcha that looks this majestic and magical.

You're gonna listen.

And it's not hard to understand why, because you have...

You have this beautiful bright green beverage, right?

Look at her.

She is beautiful.

I'm a proud mother.

It's aesthetically pleasing.

It kind of looks fresh.

It looks natural.

This is how you're going to make a matcha that's amazing for your gut, skin, hair, and nails.

All of the things that we associate with healthfulness.

I cut out coffee for 30 days and switched to matcha, and here's what happened: Relax, chill, breathe, have a matcha.

And then people are also borrowing from the aesthetics of Japanese tea ceremony in this way that looks sort of minimalist and trendy.

So I think it's all like tied together in this sort of cool Japan/slash

appeal of East Asian culture

with the healthiness, healthfulness of matcha,

and then the just the role of social media.

Do we know what the Japanese think of the Western adoption of their cherished drink?

So, what's interesting is that I would say some of the stuff that's happening in the global matcha boom, it's not just confined to the West.

It's actually also happening in Japan and Japanese influencers are involved in it as well.

I would say that the main group I would be thinking about is people who are tea practitioners.

So people who enroll in a school of Japanese tea ceremony and study it, because they have always been the core matcha drinkers, both inside and outside Japan.

And so among that group, like a lot of us are feeling that kind of bemusement and, but also frustration.

and like we're kind of waiting for the boom to die a little bit so we can just go back to like

the normal matcha prices

but at the same time I think we also feel like we want to share our knowledge with people and we just wish people were perhaps a little more interested in understanding

this cultural practice that focuses on mindfulness and creating an atmosphere of peacefulness and tranquility which is quite different from what's happening in the global matcha boom.

Dr.

Rebecca Corbett, History USC, Go Bruins.

It's not just matcha, it's also Dubai chocolate and laboo boo.

Why the TikTok trends seem to be getting more and more random when we're back on Today Explained.

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Do buy chocolate, love, matcha la violent.

Laboo, matcha la violent, do buy chocolate.

My name is Amanda Moll.

I'm a senior reporter at Bloomberg Business Week, and I write our buying power column about consumer culture.

And you wrote about a strange group of items that had a very big summer.

Well, I have to give full credit for this to Zoomer internet users who sort of created this grouping of trends on their own.

The matcha lattes go along with Dubai Chocolate

and Labooboos.

Oh my gosh, this is a secret!

And Love Island

and Benson Boone.

And you know, you can sort of spiral out from there.

Hush, little matcha, don't you cry?

Everything's gonna be Benson Boone, crumble cookie, laboo boo, Dubai.

This set of of like weird recent trends, I think, is indicative of how weird the trend cycles have gotten in consumer goods.

You know, in the past, trends have forever seemed a little bit weird because the average person doesn't have like a ton of insight on like where something ultimately came from that is suddenly everywhere.

You know, in the Devil Wears product, the scene about cerulean.

What you don't know is that that sweater is not just blue, it's not turquoise, it's not lapis, it's actually cerulean.

cerulean.

And blue sweaters sort of demonstrates that dynamic, and that's existed for a long time.

And it's sort of comical how you think that you've made a choice that exempts you from the fashion industry when in fact

you're wearing a sweater that was selected for you by the people in this room

from a pile of stuff.

But when you get down to it, a lot of like sort of random seeming trends in consumer goods from decades past have like a pretty easy way to explain them if you dig a little bit.

Trends recently seem to have like even less connective tissue to culture at large than they used to, which is a real change in how trends are produced, how people become aware of things, why people buy things.

And I think that laboo boos and matcha lattes and Dubai chocolate and Benson Boone and crumble cookies and all of these things are sort of

that have arisen at like sort of the same time to each other are good examples of this phenomenon.

So what binds all these things together, Dubai chocolate, matcha latte, laboo booze, Benson boon,

is that they're kind of weird and they all are getting noticed in a kind of weird ecosystem called TikTok?

Yes, a lot of this is TikTok fueled.

But in general, this I think is a phenomenon of algorithmic social media because you when you interact with with things on these platforms when you're presented with things on these platforms you have like very little context so you don't have the sort of traditional methods of learning about new pieces of culture whether that's like word of mouth or dissemination through traditional media

you just have a series of things that you're presented with with no context and no connective tissue to anything else really matcha 24 karat labo boo do by chocolate bent in boonbeam.

It's not clocking to you that I'm standing on moonbeams.

Get ready with me to try the new golden labo-boo, Dubai chocolate, matcha latte, moonbeam ice cream, boba, crumble cookie on my bi-weekly trip to Japan.

And that means that the things that catch on, the things that end up getting seen by a large audience, it's very, very difficult to trace where they came from, why they became interesting to so many people, or what any of it means.

The algorithm certainly feels like a helpful explanation of how these random things sort of took the summer by storm.

But

I think you're right in your piece about the fact that like we have seen stuff like these things become popular before.

Like I think the best example might be not Benson Boone,

but like the beanie baby, because it's so close to a luboo boo.

And that happened, of course, in an age before algorithms.

What was

algorithms existed, just not the kinds we have now.

What was the difference then?

And why did beanie babies happen then?

Yeah, well, beanie babies are a fascinating story because they seem so random and so from nowhere and so

one of one, but they're actually a really good demonstration of how trends are traditionally disseminated through culture.

They came around as collectibles sold in gift shops and stationery stores by a relatively small toy company who was looking to increase sales by you know stoking demand through the sort of traditional well-known marketing tactics of you know false scarcity and limited editions and things like that.

Here's a quick lesson on this beanie craze.

A company called Ty makes them, releases them with different names.

They're all named after something, an animal,

an animal, basically.

They haven't done like funguses.

Then retires them one at a time.

But they really took off because eBay was launching at the same time.

So Americans were presented with this idea that anybody could resell anything to anybody else in the country, and you could do it from home.

and you could

quit your day job by selling random stuff.

From doctors, lawyers,

just to regular white-collar, blue-collar workers, and they all want beanie babies.

But isn't that cute?

What would you rather have?

A new car or peanut the elephant?

Beanie babies as like a financial instrument that was the response to a new type of commerce, that's what really fueled them.

And how does that compare then to like the luboo-boo thing?

Well, the luboo boo thing is sort of fascinating because

in the sort of traditional trend environment, like with beanie babies, it really mattered if the thing you were selling or buying was real.

Here's the certificate of authenticity right here, right?

Correct.

And this is what people need nowadays, isn't it?

Well, it's a good idea if they're buying an expensive beanie.

In this video, I'm comparing a authentic Thai beanie baby Bronte the dinosaur versus two counterfeit Brontes.

People had sort of like rational

beliefs about, and by rational, I don't mean reasonable.

Let me be clear, but they had reasons that were rational enough for wanting particular

dolls at particular prices.

With the lububus, there's not quite so much of that at all.

In fact, there's very real demand for real lububus, but alongside them, the market for fakes, which are adorably called lafufus,

has really exploded.

The craze is fueled by people just wanting to clip one of these things onto their outfits.

It's not about the laboo boos themselves, really.

Is that something else that binds all of these weird trends together that they're all kind of, I don't like, no judgment, but like a little infantile?

We're talking about like sweet treats and toys and Benson Boone.

Yeah, I think so.

The way that algorithmically mediated social platforms work is by sort of collapsing your capacity to understand the context of what you're looking at.

And so if

you're being served things that like, you don't know why you're seeing this, you don't really know what it is, and then suddenly that thing is everywhere,

you know, you sort of lose your capacity to use some of your more mature emotional skills to limit your reactions because you get sort of a split second to react to things.

That is why stuff on social media tends to do the best and tends to get the most engagement if it's like highly stimulating, if it's colorful or

incredibly delicious looking or outrageous or maddening or offensive.

Like these are the sort of like emotional reactions that the algorithmic social media values because they stoke engagement, they increase people's time on the platforms.

So

things that do well

in these environments are sort of like maximally stimulating.

And

that means that you're going to get sold a lot of things that are mostly sold to kids because the sort of like maximal colorful, sweet, cuddly, fun

stuff is like generally made for children.

How do we feel about that, Amanda?

You know, I think that's pretty bad.

I think that that's not doing anybody any favors culturally but I think that the sort of like

persistent interest in staying power in like a few of these trends including labo boos including dubai chocolate including matcha lattes um i think is also like indicative of a real desire on the part of people who use these platforms to like try to make sense of the internet and online life in like real life, in physical reality.

Because these are all by and large, these are all like objects or things or experiences that like you need to like get up and leave your house and go have.

They are things that exist in physical reality that you're looking for or trying to get or wanting to try.

And I think that like

that these are the things that ultimately go the furthest for people, I think is a real indication that

there's still something that people want to do

to reconcile their online lives with their offline lives.

Those are not really separate anymore.

And I think that some of these sort of like viral objects are a way for people to sort of like emotionally and intellectually like bridge that gap that they are constantly straddling.

It's like a consensus experience.

If you're having a matcha latte,

you are having an experience that a lot of people with a lot of different feeds than you have, like, also had recently.

And it, I think, you know, gives people a little bit of a sense of participation and a sense of

that the stuff they look at on their phone like is real.

And is that a good thing?

I mean, we talked about like the infantilization

of adults being a bad thing, but is getting out and making,

I don't know,

a thing you see on your phone a tangible consensus reality good for us?

I think it's a positive indicator that people still want a little bit of consensus reality, that people aren't entirely sort of like feed-brained at this point.

I think it is indicative that people aren't like fully satisfied just with seeing things online and participating online.

I think that any indicator that we have that people want to have normal physical social experiences with each other is probably a good one.

Amanda Moll, have a good one at Bloomberg.com.

Danielle Hewitt, produced our program today, thanks to Kendall Cunningham at Vox for her help.

Amina Al-Sadi edited Patrick Boyd mixed.

Laura Bullard maintains that the funny bone of the universe bends towards Laboo Boo.

The rest of today explained is Noel King, but also Peter Balinon Rosen, Denise Guerra, Abhishai Artsi, Kelly Wessinger, Hari Mawagdi, Ariana Askuru, Devin Schwartz, Adrian Lilly, and Miles Bryan.

Our deputy executive producer is Jolie Myers.

Our executive executive producer is Miranda Kennedy.

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